sportsman's-link.com

| Welcome to Sportsmans-Link.com, the Outdoorsman's home for information on Fishing, Hunting and Camping

April 16, 2003

Home

Kayaking and Canoeing Lake Superior's Keweenaw Point
by Ken Liimatta
The cold frigid water of Lake Superior turn into a paradise in July and August. The water's edge is an outdoor photographer's dream. The shoreline has been formed by millions of years of wear and tear from extreme weather. Follow our late July 2002 (26 mile) kayak trip around the Upper Penninsula's, Keweenaw Point.

Our journey begins on the south shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula along Lake Superior at an area known as Bete Gries. Driving to Michigan's Upper Peninsula heading north on US41 passing through the twin cities of Houghton and Hancock. Along the way, you'll pass through the Keweenaw National Historic Park based in the former copper mining town of Calumet. About 30 miles north of Calumet, exiting US 41 towards Lac La Belle is a small resort town at the foot of Mount Bohemia.

Mount Bohemia offers some of the best down hill skiing in the Mid-west. With annual snowfall averaging 250 inches, Mount Bohemia, with its extreme verticals and backwoods skiing, is not for the beginner. Continuing on to Bete Gries, we arrive at the beautiful white sand beach that continues for about a mile.

Our crew of seven unload our kayaks, canoes and gear and get ready to launch on our three day trip. The shoreline is shallow and the lake has one to two foot waves rolling in. With a little assistance in balancing the canoes from Colleen Rowe (Tudy), we launch into deeper water to avoid getting swamped. Tudy is the only person on this trip in a kayak. The rest of the crew include: first timers and good friends Chrissy and Darin Sherman in an aluminum canoe, Mark Rowe and brother Jason Liimatta in a 16 foot fiberglass Wenonah canoe and Nicole Champine and myself in a 17 foot fiberglass Wenonah canoe. With all four vessels launched safely, we continue along the shore heading east along the Keweenaw Point.

Our trip plan is to go from Bete Gries (1) around the point to Copper Harbor (4). A 26 mile trip which we will break up into 7 to 8 mile increments. At each stop we will camp on the shore (2 and 3) and enjoy the beauty that Lake Superior has to offer. If the weather cooperates we will leave on a Friday morning and arrive in Copper Harbor early Sunday afternoon. The shores along Keweenaw Point are, for the most part, undeveloped and allow a rare opportunity to see a part of America the way it was thousands of years ago.

"Sportsmans-Link, the place to be when your not in the outdoors"
Keweenaw Point Picture Gallery


Lone pine tree overlooking Fish Cove on Lake Superior


Follow our trip plan around the Keweenaw Point.

++REGIONS++
+ WISCONSIN
+ UPPER MICHIGAN
+ LOWER MICHIGAN
+ MINNESOTA
+ ILLINOIS
+ CANADA
+ NORTH DAKOTA
+ ISLE ROYALE

About two miles into our journey we happen upon an old fishing camp known as Fisherman's Cove. No longer a fishing operation, the docks, fish house and dwelling still exist as a cottage for some fortunate souls. We stopped to take a break and stretch out. The fishing camp shows signs of wear from the extreme weather and fierce storms from Lake Superior. One can only imagine what it was like when this camp was in full operation. The tough and rugged Fisherman working long days on the lake and returning with fish boxes loaded with Lake Trout, Cisco's, Fats and Herring that would be shipped off to southern markets. After a good stretch and a snack, we headed on up the shoreline. The shore landscape began to change and we pass higher rock formations carved out by years of battering from Lake Superior. The rocky shore rises and fall and juts in and out. In several areas, there are small caves carved out with trees leaning over the banks like they are clinging onto life. On many trees, there are exposed root systems that are tangled and twisted. Along the shores, there are many logs and pieces of drift wood that have been sanded and shaped by Mother Nature. The waters of Lake Superior are clear and green. The cold waters of Lake Superior with its huge mass and extreme depths keep it the cleanest of all the Great Lakes. The sun is shining and shimmering off the water and raising the temperature's into the mid 70's. A few miles further, we come to a rock outcropping that stands 30 feet above the water and over 40 feet in diameter. The rock island split off of the mainland and sits about 40 feet from the shore. The split rock is covered with pine and cedar trees, moss and other foliage. The split rock urges one to be adventurous and climb it, only to dive off into the waters of Lake Superior. We opt to stop for pictures and then paddle between the shore on the inside of the towering rock island. Paddling on, we arrive at the mouth of the Montreal River. The Montreal pours out via a series of waterfalls that gives Lake Superior an almost beer like color. The river's warm water provides a perfect opportunity to swim and cool off after the hard paddling. Climbing the gentle rise, the rocky falls give a great opportunity for group pictures or the photographing the scenery itself. The Montreal has an incredible 30 foot waterfall nearly a mile upstream. A well worn footpath leads you to the foot of the falls. Crossing the river allows you to climb to the top of the falls. Either view offers a great opportunity for pictures. Continuing on about a quarter of a mile, we arrive at our first campsite, a beautiful secluded spot called Fish Cove. The water takes on a rusty-reddish color due to the sandstone rocks and pebbles that cover the shoreline. As we unload our gear, it is refreshing to crack open a Labatt's Blue and relax in the sun. As we unwind, we begin to gather wood, pitch our tents and prepare dinner. Sitting in the sandy pebble beach admiring the awesome view across Superior, it feels like I am a million miles away from ringing phones, e-mail messages, TV, and everything else that goes with modern life. After a great night sleep and breakfast, we did a little exploring and walked along the beach to the point that is on one end of Fish Cove. The jagged rocky point provides a superb view of the miles we trekked and a mountain like rise called Bear Bluff. A few photo's later, we were back at our campsite and ready to break camp. All loaded up, we continued up the shore. The next points along our journey include several large bays to stop and pick agates and just explore. About one mile out from this part of the Keweenaw Point, lies the Coast Guard buoy tender Cutter "Mesquite" underwater. The "Mesquite" was sunk there as a dive preserve after it had crashed into a shoal while tending buoys in the fall of 1989. The Coast Guard attempted to save the ship, but November storms pounded the hull of "Mesquite", literally tearing it up. Fortunately, through the efforts of Mark Rowe and others, the ship was sunk and is now part of an underwater preserve. Part of our exploring includes finding wreckage from the "Mesquite" along the shore. This being our third year, we have found several items including a dive marker, oil cans and even a large food chest probably used in the ships mess hall. The weather on this day is absolutely gorgeous, the sky is clear and the sun is warm. We arrive at a very large bay and a spot you might think is something out of Cancun, Mexico. A long stretch of white sand beach called Keystone Bay. Keystone is one of the spots that is reachable via four wheel drive vehicles, so we arrive with several folks who also are camping out for the weekend. The area is buzzing with 4-Wheelers and trucks running up and down the stretch of beach. Several 4-Wheelers are towing their riders on knee boards along the water and even across the sand. As much as I appreciate everyone's right to use this land, the vehicles do take away from the pristine beauty. It is however, a matter of time before this activity will be banned from this area. That just seems to be the nature of things over time. The water is a bit on the cooler side, but we decide it is time to take a dip and get refreshed. After a short swim, we fuel up on snacks and head on our way. A head of thunder clouds is rolling across the lake and we still have a few mile to go before arrive at our next campsite called the Missile Site. As we paddle on, the day is starting to get long. I think everyone feels their bones and muscles aching a bit and all of this fresh air take a lot out of you. As we paddle out of Keystone, we can see High Rock Point which seems closer than it is. High Rock point is really the very tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula. This spot is also accessible with a vehicle, so a few tents litter the shoreline. As we pass High Rock and arrive at the Missile Site, we are welcomed by a few family members who had planned to meet us at this spot. As we all pile out of our canoes & kayak, it feels good to be on land. We setup camp and begin to prepare a steak dinner. As the crew gathers wood, black clouds and thunder head our way. The full brunt of the thunderstorm hits the Keweenaw point, nearly dousing our fire. After about an hour, the rain subsided and we did manage to enjoy the fire and the peace and quiet. The next morning we cooked a good breakfast and our visitors loaded up the truck and headed back. We loaded up our gear and begin to paddle the remaining 7 miles towards Copper Harbor. The wind had picked up quite a bit and Superior was starting to roll. The wind was coming out of the west, which started to play havoc for us because as soon as we rounded the point we would be heading into it. The waves proved to be too much and we decided to turn around, rather than take a chance of dumping our canoes. Anyone that has spent anytime near Lake Superior knows better than to test its resolve. We have respect for Superior and it is better to be safe than sorry. As we arrive back at the Missile Site, unfortunately our visitors are gone and we will have to hike into Copper Harbor to get our vehicles to get our gear out. The hike is about six or seven miles and there isn't a lot of traffic on these dirt roads. After about five miles of walking, we did manage to catch a ride from a local guy who was taking his kids camping and fishing. He was actually heading in and turned around to give us a ride out. This was not unexpected, in the Keweenaw you will find some of the friendliest people anywhere. Once we were loaded up and heading out, the vehicle was pretty quiet. The long hike and days before us worn most of us out. We covered about 19 of the 26 miles that we had planned to paddle. This was our third year canoeing and kayaking around the Keweenaw Point. In past years, we were able to complete the journey. I quietly smiled, I thought we were fortunate to get stranded in a location where we could walk out and drive back for our gear. If we were stranded at Fish Cove, would have had to leave most of our gear and figure a way to get it out via boat another time. I am not so sure the others feel so fortunate or maybe they just don't realize it. Of course, I did not mention it either. Every year I have more of an appreciation for the beauty of Lake Superior, the Keweenaw and the ability to get out and enjoy it. Next year we may plan a different path. We could begin on the north west side in Eagle River or Eagle Harbor or the south side of Traverse Bay, Gay or Betsy. I guess it doesn't matter, as long as I can go.
	Natural caves carved into the rocky shore by years of Lake Superior storms.



	This chunk of rock split away from the mainland


		Fish Cove a few hours before sunset


		Camp site at Fish Cove


		Kayaking through a natural cave